pregnant, the less aggressive the better. Use natural
brighteners like daisy, bearberry or licorice root rather
than traditional, more aggressive hydroquinone and
heavy peels until after pregnancy when hormone levels
go back to normal.
Years 40+ and Menopause
Clients in the 40+ age group are going through hormonal changes as well. Menopause can happen naturally as women age or it can be induced prematurely
due to illnesses, surgeries and medications. Because the
main source of female hormones, the ovaries, shut down
at this time, many side effects can be seen in the skin.
Every woman experiences menopause differently, and
treatments may need to be altered to address what is going on with their skin at different periods of time.
A client’s skin can be affected by a variety of issues
during menopause, such as thinning, dryness, excessive
hair growth in odd places and even hair loss. When a
person ages, the skin also becomes more sensitive, so
traditional aggressive treatments and products used
during youth may need to be altered because they are
too stimulating for skin during these hormonal changes.
Clients will still want anti-aging ingredients, such as
peptides, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), forms of retinol
and antioxidants, but they need to be cautious when
dealing with more sensitive skin.
An example would be to use retinaldehyde, which
is a gentler derivative of vitamin A versus Retin-A or
retinol, which cause redness and peeling to the skin. As
clients age, more medications will come into play due
to illnesses that come with aging. They will also play
an important part in your consultations. The skin care
professional needs to create treatments to avoid a reaction on the skin, but still give the results of rejuvenated,
healthier-looking skin the client desires.
Encourage Hormone Checks
Hormonal issues can happen to both the male and female client. Hormonal skin issues are easier to deal with
if the client and skin care professional are both aware
of what is really causing problems on the skin—that is
why it is so important to have a good intake form. Asking questions about health and medications will give
a better overview of a client, so one can create a good
treatment and home care plan.
When the client is having issues with their skin
that you suspect could be associated with hormonal
fluctuations, encourage the client to get their hormones
checked. This could be at any life stage. If levels are
off, they may be given a prescription to help balance
out hormones or even take the more natural route with
supplements. Either way, it will be much easier to help
the client achieve their skin care goals.
(Accessed September 14, 2017)
Understanding the underlying hormonal issue is key in treating clients.
Kris Campbell is a licensed esthetician who
has been actively involved in the professional
skin care industry since 2004. She created Hale
& Hush, the only professional skin care line to
focus exclusively on sensitive skin. Campbell is
respected as a prominent writer, speaker and educator in the
skin care industry.