Nowadays, skin care products can utilize
innovative and unique vehicle molecules that can
transport active ingredients into skin. One of the
first structures to be studied as an effective delivery
system for the skin are so-called phospholipids.
Phospolipids are structures with two different
endings: a lipid-soluble end and a water-soluble
end. These ends can attach to the original
active ingredient. The active ingredient-loaded
phospolipids can then travel to deeper layers of
the skin, releasing the active ingredient on its way.
Multiple bilayers of these phopholipids can form
liposomes—small vesicles filled with content—that
contain active ingredients, which can then slowly
release into the skin throughout time.
Many of the new types of active ingredients,
such as plant-derived stem cells, are now offered
in a dispersion of liposomes to enhance skin
penetration and, therefore, the effect. Also,
because of the growing competitiveness among
skin care companies, some brands are creating
their own delivery system technology that is
unique to their product line.
Use of external devices may also increase the
efficacy of product penetration.
Ultrasound/microdermabrasion. One method
that is fairly new utilizes ultrasound technology.
Ultrasonic treatment can be performed by itself
or in conjunction with a microdermabrasion
treatment. When used with microdermabrasion,
the absorption rate of topical vitamin-enriched
products may increase.
High frequency. High frequency is another
method for increasing the absorption of products
into the skin. High frequency involves the use of
a current to aid in product penetration and gentle
skin stimulation. It benefits the skin by helping in
the penetration of treatment creams, serums and
complexes by increasing the blood flow in certain
areas, and regenerating and re-energizing tired,
Galvanic. Another less frequently used but
effective tactic involves galvanic current. Using
galvanic current on the positive polarity is referred
to as iontophoresis. During an iontophoresis
treatment, a low electrical current is applied to the
skin, which provides the driving force to enable the
penetration of charged molecules deep into the skin.
It is ideal for aging skin in helping to carry active,
age-fighting ingredients deeper into the skin.
ENHANCE EFFICACY AND FUTURE SALES
It’s important to have a fundamental knowledge
of the delivery systems employed in the skin
care products you work with to ensure their
effectiveness. If you’re not sure, most reputable
companies have an educational team that handles
these types of inquiries.
Using a delivery system creates a superior
product that penetrates more effectively and
feels better on the skin. All of these attributes
are influential on consumer behavior and repeat
spending patterns, based on the success and
affect clients will have with that specific product.
Products with delivery systems to boost the
actives penetrate more deeply, thereby providing
enhanced efficacy, and generating increased
product performance and future sales.
(Accessed May 5, 2014)
Marc A. Ronert, MD, PhD,
president and medical director of
Image Skincare, is a European
board-certified plastic, reconstructive
and aesthetic surgeon, as well as a diplomat of
the European Board of Plastic, Reconstructive
and Aesthetic Surgeons. He is also the founder
and president of the Care for Skin Foundation,
which supports people in need of plastic