54 October 2013 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com
skin type with rosacea. A means of differentiating
between regular acne and rosacea is to ask the client
whether they experience irritation of the eyes or
styes on a frequent basis. This can be a sign of ocular
rosacea, which occurs in 50% of all rosacea cases.
Hypersensitivity. Individuals with SOC often
experience increased sensitivity to topical stimulation
in the form of chemical peels. This is due to a higher
level of transepidermal water loss found in clients of
Asian and African descent, which leads to reduced
barrier function. When selecting a chemical peel for
these clients, it is critical to err on the side of caution
and utilize the gentlest solution available, which will
limit the potential for irritation, inflammation and
potentially PIH. Many gentle-blended peel solutions
available today create minimal surface stimulation, but
still deliver excellent results.
INGREDIENTS AND TREATMENTS TO AVOID
When treating clients with SOC, it is important
to avoid ingredients and treatments that can cause
adverse effects, such as deep peeling that can lead to
PIH. Ingredients and techniques that should be avoided
include the following.
• Harsh microdermabrasion techniques or
exfoliants utilizing nut hulls, pits or
similarly abrasive materials. Smooth
bead exfoliators are preferred.
• Hydroquinone in doses of
4% or greater, because it can
• Retinoic acid should be used
with caution because it can
cause inflammation, which
can result in both hypo- and
hyperpigmentation in SOC.
Retinol is a safer alternative,
because it is nonsurface-irritating.
• Ablative CO2 laser treatment
is an anti-aging resurfacing
technique that stimulates
collagen production beneath
skin’s surface. However, this
causes full thickness burns,
more commonly known as
third-degree burns, and
typically manifests as hypo-or hyperpigmentation. Newer